Sweet dreams are made of this
Geraldine Johns
It must, I am sure, bring night terrors to
any restaurateur. You start up a site, pour
your every last bit into it, select the best
chef there is – and stamp a damn fine
mark on the city. And then what happens? Chef
leaves to go out on his own. At the same time,
it is the Christmas downtime and your wife
and business partner is about to give birth.
Even soap operas survive on weaker story lines
than this.
Michael and Annette Dearth opened The Grove
almost three years ago. They gave new life
to the old Le Brie and Auckland was all the
better for it. Head chef Michael Meredith performed
kitchen tricks nobody else could copy. But
Meredith has decided to go solo. We will watch
his next steps with great interest. Stepping
into his very big shoes at The Grove is Sid
Sahrawat. He won Innovative Chef of the Year
at the 2006 Lewisham Awards. He is 26.
Sid’s first full menu is in evidence
when the Duke and I roll up on a Thursday night.
I tend to get a bit excited when I come to
The Grove. It brings with it a sense of non-stuffy
occasion you don’t find too much around
these parts. And so it is tonight: a-hum with
discreet charm and a welcoming warmth we can’t
blame on this weather.
Sid has restricted his entrées and mains
to six of the best for each. I’ll do
sumac-spiced ostrich to start ($19) and follow
with prawn, chicken and lemongrass tortellini
($20).
I am much impressed by the wait-woman’s
considered and patient attentions to the Duke’s
needs. He wants the vegetarian tasting menu
(nine courses); she counsels against that,
given that his miserable companion is only
having two entrees. Wonderwait-woman expertly
steers him towards the alternative of globe
artichokes with capers, garlic and parmesan
($10) to start. He will do duck next. It holds
hands with a line-up including celeriac purée
and custard, grilled chorizo and jus of figs.
It costs $35.
Something of a dilemma emerges at this point.
How to extol the virtues of the new and still
pay respect to the departed? It takes perhaps
one look and one bite of the entrees to dispel
any fears. Sahrawat is maintaining the very
fine traditions of Meredith – in his
own admirable manner. These are meals created
by a chef and not a cook; where taste is paramount
and every other component gets equal consideration.
The tortellini has the silkiness of the finest
lingerie to it; the duck is a work of staggering
beauty. Even the fries are finished with truffle
oil.
It helps that tonight’s punter are a
well-behaved bunch, including a couple celebrating
their wedding anniversary. The only vow I’ll
be renewing here tonight is to return.
We get a slow-roasted pineapple dessert ($14.50)
next; Dearth also presents a gratis green apple
bavarois that has a belly dancer’s wobble
all about it. They have a Sahrawat sassiness
to them that stays with us as we leave. We
will sleep well and happy on these dining dreams;
Dearth should too.
Service: Close to faultless
Wine: Around 200; you can’t go wrong
Ambience: Discreet and clubby
Bathrooms: Compact, clean
Rating: 4/5 stars
