Lauraine Jacobs

Cuisine rating:
EAT: 8 DRINK: 8.5 LOOK: 6.5 CARE: 8
As soon as the word was out that chef Michael Meredith had moved from Vinnies to a new gig at The Grove, many of Auckland's food cognescenti trooped in to test the menu. And they have not been disappointed.

Two Americans, Michael and Annette Dearth, opened the doors to their first restaurant in the very long and awkward space formerly occupied by Alta, Le Brie and several others. A brave and noble effort to break the room up, and some bold use of colour, a few giant palms and some soft squishy banquettes have improved the place. It needs to be filled with people to create real atmosphere. Most nights that happens but lunch early in the week can be a draughty affair.

Meredith's food is good. He was well taught in the classics early in his career by Tony Astle in Antoine's kitchen, and more recently worked alongside David Griffiths, one of the more innovative chefs in the city. True to his own beliefs and backed by the vision of the Dearths (who plan to establish an organic garden to supply the restaurant) Meredith offers a vegetarian tasting menu as well as his tightly constructed a la carte menu.

We got off to a good start with ravioli of langoustine, standing proudly upright sandwiched between two thin layers of fried black pudding, and napped with lobster butter. The steamed rice pastry was delicate, the scampi filling sweet and firm, and the tasty black pudding added a masterful edge to the dish. An item from the vegie menu, a beetroot and pear salad with warm crunchy-crusted goat's cheese, was drizzled with delicate walnut oil that seemed to add a nutty dimension, lifting the dish.

Two other standout entrées were thin slices of rabbit loin served on tortellini that was filled with the leg meat and accompanied by pancetta, chervil and vanilla jus; and an Indian-spiced duck breast with carrot and cashew salad and medallion of wobbly coconut jelly.

And then it was the main course. Pork can be fickle, but in Meredith's hands the grilled fillet was juicy and tender, and the square of belly confit was rich with a crispy crackling topping. It was partnered by roast fennel, apple purée and the most perfect cylinder of potato. It was a dish I'd return for. Another in in our party loved her intricate ballottine of quail accompanied by a comforting and unusual chestnut and cinnamon risotto with soused figs.

The chef at the table was completely enamoured with his eye fillet of beef, enhanced by a Horopito butter and a Jerusalem artichoke and mushroom ragout. "Perfectly balanced," he said.

If Michael Meredith needs to work on anything, it is his approach to fish. Both fish dishes – a smoked snapper entrée and a steamed turbot with soft shell crab (replaced by scallops on a subsequent visit), were lacking in both direction and flavour, and proved disappointing.

Five choices of dessert were admired (apart from the savarin that lacked the yeastiness it should have displayed); the best was the light yoghurt parfait with rhubarb and orange.

The wine list is extensive and ranges from well-chosen more inexpensive local wines through to fine white Alsace wines (perfect for Meredith's slightly spiced food) as well as a couple of extraordinary examples of Burgundy and Bordeaux, priced for the city's millionaires.

The Grove's owners have made an enthusiastic and keen start. Let's hope the crowd follow and help to finally make this space a success.

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